Castles, Oysters, and Chocolatines: A Bordeaux River Cruise for Non-Drinkers
In August, we spent a week sailing the rivers of Bordeaux on Avalon Waterways' Artistry II. Bordeaux is famous for its wine, and this was a wine-focused cruise, with winery visits offered most days. Here's the thing: we don't drink.
It turns out that didn't matter one bit. Bordeaux has centuries of history, beautiful villages, and some of the best food we've ever had. Here's how we spent our week.
Getting there: Paris, the train, and the easiest tram ever
We flew into and out of Paris and spent a night there before and after the cruise, taking the train between Paris and Bordeaux. In Paris, we ate on outdoor patios, enjoyed charcuterie and espresso, and visited Montparnasse Cemetery, which was beautiful in a slightly eerie way.
Bordeaux itself was one of the easiest cities we've ever gotten around. The tram was simple to learn and took us everywhere we wanted to go.
Life on a small ship
It started with the easiest embarkation day we've ever had. Forget the long lines and crowded terminals of an ocean cruise. We simply walked onto the ship and checked in, just like arriving at a hotel.
Avalon Artistry II carried just 107 passengers, which made it easy to get to know people on board. We became fast friends with a couple from Australia and spent many tours and dinners together.
Our cabin, 204, was 21 steps from the dining room. That's the kind of detail we pay attention to, because it matters for anyone with mobility concerns. If stairs are a factor for you, ask us about cabin placement before you book.
Non-drinkers are well taken care of on board, too. There were plenty of non-alcoholic wines to choose from, plus a non-alcoholic beer, so we never felt left out at dinner or during the tastings.
Choosing history over wine tastings
Most days offered a winery visit, but Avalon also had city and historical tours, so we chose those instead. Some highlights:
An e-bike tour through Margaux. From our stop in Cussac in the Médoc, we rode with a small group past one famous wine chateau after another. You don't need to drink wine to enjoy the views.
Château de La Brède. The home of the philosopher Montesquieu, complete with a real moat. Our guide told us it has stayed in the same family for centuries.
The Citadel of Blaye. A massive fortress overlooking the river, with views for miles.
Bourg. A hilltop village with beautiful views from the upper town.
Saint-Émilion. A gorgeous medieval town with steep, winding streets. Fair warning: the walking is a challenge, so bring good shoes.
Bordeaux's markets. Fresh chocolatines and espresso, which became our daily ritual.
Falling for Eleanor of Aquitaine
The history on this trip caught us completely by surprise. Bordeaux was the heart of Aquitaine, and we became fascinated by Eleanor of Aquitaine, who was queen of France and then queen of England in the 1100s. Visiting the region she ruled made the stories come alive.
Oysters on Arcachon Bay
One of our favorite days was a trip to Arcachon Bay. In La Teste-de-Buch, we visited an oyster farm on the coastal waterway, with the tide out, and learned how oysters are farmed. They were the freshest oysters we've ever had (and yes, there was wine to pair with them for those who wanted it).
Afterward, we walked the beach in Arcachon, shopped the market, had a wonderful lunch, and finished with ice cream on the beach.
Sailing with friends from the industry
This cruise was also an advisory board retreat for our host agency, KHM Travel Group. Sarah sits on the advisory board, and we traveled alongside KHM's president and VP of engagement, Globus and Avalon's sales and business development leaders, and the VP of industry and trade relations for CLIA. Spending a week together on the river gave us a firsthand look at how Avalon takes care of its guests, which helps us plan even better trips for you.
Our week by the numbers
3 granitas (each)
4 chocolatines (all Sarah)
7 train rides
10 cities and villages
12 oysters, 4 tastings (each)
2 new friends from Australia
Thinking about a river cruise?
You don't have to love wine to love Bordeaux. If you're curious about a river cruise, whether it's France, the Danube, or the Rhine, we'd love to help you find the right one. Select a time at kraftytravel.com to start planning.
